Centre for Dermatology Research, The University of Manchester & Salford Royal NHS Foundation Trust, Manchester Academic Health Science Centre, Manchester, UK.
A*STAR Skin Research Laboratory (A*SRL), Agency for Science, Technology and Research (A*STAR), Republic of Singapore.
Br J Dermatol. 2023 Oct 30;189(Suppl 1):i17-i23. doi: 10.1093/bjd/ljad282.
Skin ageing is a complex process involving the additive effects of skin's interaction with its external environment, predominantly chronic sun exposure, upon a background of time-dependent intrinsic ageing. Skin health and beauty is considered one of the principal factors perceived to represent overall 'health and wellbeing'; thus, the demand for skin rejuvenation strategies has rapidly increased, with a worldwide annual expenditure expected to grow from $US24.6 billion to around $US44.5 billion by 2030 (https://www.databridgemarketresearch.com/reports/global-facial-rejuvenation-market). Skin rejuvenation can be achieved in several ways, ranging from laser and device-based treatments to chemical peels and injectables; however, topical skin care regimes are a mainstay treatment for ageing skin and all patients seeking skin rejuvenation can benefit from this relatively low-risk intervention. While the most efficacious topical rejuvenation treatment is application of tretinoin (all-trans retinoic acid) - a prescription-only medicine considered to be the clinical 'gold standard' - a hybrid category of 'cosmeceutical' products at the midpoint of the spectrum of cosmetics and pharmaceutical has emerged. This article reviews the clinical manifestations of skin ageing and the available topical treatments for skin rejuvenation, including retinoids, peptides and antioxidants.
皮肤衰老过程复杂,是皮肤与其外部环境相互作用的累积效应,主要是慢性阳光照射,在时间依赖性内在衰老的背景下发生。皮肤健康和美丽被认为是代表整体“健康和幸福感”的主要因素之一;因此,对皮肤焕新策略的需求迅速增加,预计到 2030 年,全球年支出将从 246 亿美元增长到 445 亿美元左右(https://www.databridgemarketresearch.com/reports/global-facial-rejuvenation-market)。皮肤焕新可通过多种方式实现,包括激光和设备治疗、化学换肤和注射等;然而,外用皮肤护理方案是治疗衰老皮肤的主要方法,所有寻求皮肤焕新的患者都可以从这种相对低风险的干预中获益。虽然最有效的外用焕新治疗是应用视黄醇(全反式维甲酸)——一种被认为是临床“金标准”的处方药物——但一种处于化妆品和药物之间的“药妆”产品的混合类别已经出现。本文回顾了皮肤衰老的临床表现以及可用于皮肤焕新的外用治疗方法,包括视黄醇、肽和抗氧化剂。