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含纳米封装抗氧化剂的护肤配方的抗衰老作用:临床、体外和离体研究。

Antiaging effects of a skin care formulation containing nanoencapsulated antioxidants: A clinical, in vitro, and ex vivo study.

机构信息

Sallve Comércio de Cosméticos, São Paulo, SP, Brazil.

Kosmoscience Group, Valinhos, SP, Brazil.

出版信息

J Cosmet Dermatol. 2024 Feb;23(2):510-524. doi: 10.1111/jocd.15976. Epub 2023 Sep 1.

Abstract

BACKGROUND

The development of effective cosmetic products for the reduction of the signs of skin aging is a complex process which requires an optimized combination of ingredients and specialized systems to deliver the actives to the skin layers.

AIM

To evaluate the tolerance and antiaging clinical efficacy of a cosmetic formulation containing a blend of nanoencapsulated antioxidants: ascorbyl palmitate, resveratrol, tocopherol, caffeine, carnosine, and niacinamide.

METHODS

Clinical efficacy was determined by subjective and instrumental analyses of collagen synthesis by fluorescence spectroscopy, by three-dimensional imaging analysis of suborbital edema, and by analysis of skin hydration and sebum content by biophysical techniques-Corneometer® and Sebumeter®.

RESULTS

The studied formulation was safe and effective for the improvement of skin appearance by increasing collagen synthesis and skin moisturizing and by reducing facial blemishes, swelling, and oiliness. A preclinical exploratory approach using an experimental model of human cell and skin cultures agreed with the observed antiaging effects, identifying mechanisms related to the containment of oxidative stress, reduction of melanin production, increased synthesis of type I procollagen, and regulation of the epidermal cohesion protein filaggrin.

CONCLUSIONS

The skin benefits obtained resulted from the combination of the ingredients in the formulation and the nanoencapsulation-based delivery system, which favors the solubility, safety, efficacy, and bioavailability of the preparation to the skin.

摘要

背景

开发有效减少皮肤老化迹象的美容产品是一个复杂的过程,需要优化成分组合和专门的系统,将活性物质输送到皮肤层。

目的

评估含有混合纳米封装抗氧化剂的化妆品配方的耐受性和抗衰老临床疗效:棕榈酸抗坏血酸、白藜芦醇、生育酚、咖啡因、肌肽和烟酰胺。

方法

通过荧光光谱法对胶原蛋白合成的主观和仪器分析、眶下水肿的三维成像分析以及通过生物物理技术 - 角质层水分计和皮脂计分析皮肤水分和皮脂含量来确定临床疗效。

结果

研究配方安全有效,可通过增加胶原蛋白合成和皮肤保湿,减少面部瑕疵、肿胀和油腻感来改善皮肤外观。使用人体细胞和皮肤培养物的实验模型进行的临床前探索性方法与观察到的抗衰老作用一致,确定了与控制氧化应激、减少黑色素生成、增加 I 型原胶原蛋白合成和调节表皮黏合蛋白丝聚合蛋白有关的机制。

结论

获得的皮肤益处来自配方中成分的组合和基于纳米封装的传递系统,这有利于制剂在皮肤中的溶解度、安全性、功效和生物利用度。

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